A skateboard doesn’t come with warning lights. One day an axle nut is half loose, the next a bearing sounds like it’s full of sand, and a week later the tail is so chewed up that your pop has quietly disappeared. Almost all of that can be caught with one-minute checks, and the wear you can’t prevent (parts wear out, that’s the deal) can at least be replaced on time, before it fails mid-trick.
For this guide we cross-checked the official Bones Bearings maintenance page, four Tactics guides, the skatedeluxe assembly wiki, Powell Peralta’s official product information, Stoked Ride Shop’s waterlogged-deck guide and several articles from SkateboardersHQ and Ripped Laces. One transparency note: those last two blogs are written by the same person, Ruben Vee, so when they agree we count them as a single voice, not as two sources confirming each other. And where the sources contradict each other (it happens more than you’d expect), we tell you exactly that instead of picking a side.
The routine checks that prevent bad surprises
Hardware and nuts
The eight bolts holding deck and trucks together can rust and eventually snap, so it’s worth looking at them from time to time and replacing any that look beaten up. They’re cheap, and if there’s no skate shop nearby, a hardware store carries equivalent sizes. When tightening, the skatedeluxe reference is for the bolt heads to sit flush with the grip tape, neither sunken nor sticking out.
Axle nuts follow the same logic: if they look beaten up, swap them. And here’s a detail a lot of people learn the hard way: when mounting a wheel, you tighten the axle nut until there’s almost no side play, but no further, because overtightening damages the bearings. The spacers that sit between the two bearings in each wheel exist precisely for this: they protect against overtightening and keep the bearings parallel.
The kingpin and the bushings
The kingpin is the truck’s central bolt, and checking it goes beyond the nut: look at the washers, the bushings and, above all, the bushing seat where the bushings rest. SkateboardersHQ warns that a cracked bushing seat can’t be patched; it means replacing the whole truck.
Bushings are done when they squeak constantly, look crushed or crumbly, or show cracks and tears. There’s a subtler sign that skatedeluxe points out: when tightening or loosening the kingpin no longer changes how the truck feels, the bushings have stopped doing their job. For plain squeaking there’s a classic quick fix, soap shavings or candle wax in the seat, though it’s exactly that, a temporary fix.
Loose or tight trucks?
There’s no right answer, which is why we treat this as adjustment rather than repair. Tightening the kingpin nut (clockwise) makes the trucks less reactive; loosening does the opposite. With tight trucks you gain stability at speed and reduce wheelbite risk, in exchange for worse turning and faster bushing wear; they tend to be the choice for bowls, drops and stair sets. Loose trucks are more maneuverable but less stable, and if you go too loose, wheelbite comes back from the other direction: the wheel touches the deck and the board stops dead.
A practical test that gets passed around: tilt the deck side to side with your foot. If it leans with little effort, you’re fine; if it feels rigid, you’re overtightened; if the deck touches the wheels, too loose. And a SkateboardersHQ tip we find the most useful in this whole section: if you have to take the kingpin to an extreme to get the feel you want, the answer isn’t the kingpin, it’s harder or softer bushings for your weight.
Rotating your wheels
Wheels don’t wear evenly across the four positions, and that’s where coning (cone-shaped wear) comes from. Tactics recommends rotating them roughly every 3 months, or using every bearing cleaning as the occasion, and says that regularly flipping or swapping them can increase their lifespan. The classic pattern is an X: back left goes to front right and vice versa, same with the other diagonal, flipping each wheel so the graphic faces inward.
Grip gum
A giant eraser for your grip tape. Tactics considers it the go-to method for cleaning grip: rub firmly over the dirty areas and it lifts dust, dirt and even chewing gum. A cheap alternative they suggest themselves is a sanding belt cleaner from a hardware store, which is essentially the same thing. That said, SkateboardersHQ tried one and reports mixed results: it works on surface dust, but it won’t perform miracles. That matches general experience, so count on it as maintenance, not as resurrection for dead grip.
How to use the maintenance explorer
Below you’ll find 26 tasks and warning signs sorted by type: routine checks, when to replace each part, cleaning, water and weather, and repairs. You can filter them by frequency (every session, monthly, every 2-3 months, when needed or after getting wet), by part using the tags (deck, trucks, wheels, bearings, grip, tools) or search them by name.
Each card sums up what to do and which signs to watch, and when the sources disagree, the card says so. Six cards carry a verified video, from Tactics’ bearing cleaning to Braille’s classic loose-versus-tight trucks comparison.
Routine checks
Tighten the hardware
The bolts holding deck and trucks together can rust and snap, so check them from time to time. Per skatedeluxe, tighten until the heads sit flush with the grip tape. Replace any that look beaten up: they're cheap and hardware stores carry equivalent sizes.
Crushed axle nuts get replaced too. When tightening an axle nut, leave the wheel almost without side play but don't overdo it: overtightening damages the bearings. Spacers between the bearings protect against exactly that and keep them parallel.
Check the kingpin and bushings
Look at the kingpin nut, the washers, the bushings and, above all, the bushing seat. SkateboardersHQ warns that a cracked bushing seat can't be patched: it means replacing the whole truck.
Squeaky, crushed, crumbly or cracked bushings are due for replacement. For plain squeaking there's a temporary fix: soap shavings or candle wax in the seat.
Adjust how tight your trucks are
Turning the kingpin nut clockwise stiffens the steering; counterclockwise, the trucks turn easier. Tight trucks give stability at speed and less wheelbite risk, but turn worse and wear bushings faster; loose trucks are more maneuverable and less stable, and too loose the wheel can touch the deck and stop the board dead.
Quick test: tilt the deck side to side. Leans with little effort, fine; feels rigid, overtightened; touches the wheels, too loose. And the SkateboardersHQ tip: the better way to change the feel isn't the kingpin, it's harder or softer bushings for your weight.
Spin each wheel by hand (bearing test)
Spin each wheel by hand. The practical SkateboardersHQ rule: if it stops in under roughly 4 seconds, it's time to clean or replace the bearings. Squeaking, gritty sandy noise or a wheel that slows right down point the same way.
Tactics suggests an intermediate step before taking anything apart: a few drops of lubricant and another spin. If that doesn't help, deep clean.
Rotate your wheels
Rotating wheels prevents coning (cone-shaped wear) and flat spots from uneven wear. Tactics suggests doing it roughly every 3 months, or with every bearing cleaning; regularly flipping or swapping them can increase their lifespan.
The classic pattern is an X: back left to front right and vice versa, same with the other diagonal, flipping each wheel so the graphic faces inward.
Run grip gum over the grip
Tactics calls it the go-to method for cleaning grip tape: rubbing firmly over dirty areas lifts dust, dirt and even chewing gum. A cheap alternative: a sanding belt cleaner from a hardware store.
SkateboardersHQ tried one and reports mixed results: it works on surface dust but won't perform miracles. Count on it as maintenance, not as a cure for dead grip.
When to replace each part
Signs your deck is dead
No tail left to pop from, that's it: a chewed edge and razor tail kill pop and can cut you. Pop loss also arrives on its own; per Ripped Laces, a daily-skated deck keeps its fresh pop for around 1 to 2 months.
Delamination (plies coming apart) costs stiffness and ends in breakage; Powell Peralta officially warrants its decks against delamination for their useful life. A snapped ply means immediate replacement: the deck flexes way too much and will break on the next trick. A few chips on the edges, on the other hand, aren't a reason to replace while nose and tail stay decent.
Pressure cracks vs serious cracks
Pressure cracks, the fine stress lines next to the truck bolts, usually affect only the top and bottom plies and, according to SkateboardersHQ, don't matter.
A crack running through several plies of maple is a different story: it raises the real risk of snapping the deck near the bolts on a hard impact, and that's when you replace.
How long a skateboard deck lasts
The honest range from SkateboardersHQ runs from 1 hour to 1 year, depending on quality, style and frequency. Getting specific with Ripped Laces: intense daily street, a new deck every 1 or 2 months; a few sessions a week or cruising, up to a couple of years; bowl, once a year is plausible; mini ramp, years.
Transparency note: Ripped Laces and SkateboardersHQ are written by the same author (Ruben Vee), so this is one voice's documented estimate, not an industry consensus.
When to replace your wheels
The signs per Tactics: irregular shape, flat spots or coning. Add diameter loss (rebound goes with it) with the practical limit of getting close to the core, pitting and tears on hard wheels, and chunking on soft ones.
Lifespan: 2 months to 2 years depending on hardness, surfaces and style. Powerslides and downhill wear wheels far faster; on a wooden mini ramp a set can last up to a decade. Small flat spots sometimes smooth out on their own with use; big ones don't.
When to replace your bearings
The SkateboardersHQ rule: replace them when cleaning no longer helps. If after cleaning and lubing the wheel still slows right down or makes noise, it's replacement time.
Bones says it plainly on its official page: don't continue to use bearings that don't spin freely, because the damage becomes permanent and they can seize up completely.
When to replace your grip tape
Replace it when it goes smooth or shiny, when your foot slips, or when it peels at the edges. Reusing old grip on another deck isn't a real option.
To remove the old sheet, the usual trick is warming it with a hair dryer and peeling slowly. Applying the new one is covered in how to build a skateboard.
Bushings and pivot cups: when to swap them
Crushed, crumbly, cracked or torn bushings go in the bin. Another sign from skatedeluxe: if tightening or loosening the kingpin no longer changes the feel, the bushings are worn out.
Pivot cups are replaceable too, but our sources don't give concrete criteria. Going by general experience, slop and a clacking sound when turning tend to give them away; take that as orientation, not verified data.
Cleaning
Clean the grip tape
Tactics describes three methods: grip gum for everyday grime, a brush with barely damp bristles in circles for caked-in mud (dry with paper towel, finish with grip gum), and a hair dryer on medium heat with absorbent paper for wax transferred from a ledge.
There's a documented disagreement here: SkateboardersHQ says never use water on grip tape, because the deck absorbs it and the grip can peel; for dry dirt, sunshine and a brush. Cautious reading: grip gum first and, if you use water, the bare minimum and only on the bristles.
Clean the bearings
The official Bones method: shields off with a pin from the inner race (wash the shield in warm soapy water, never solvent, which blisters it), a bath in pure or nearly pure isopropyl alcohol, carburetor cleaner or acetone, and immediate drying, ideally with compressed air. Gloves, eye protection and ventilation.
Tactics follows the same scheme and stresses that the bath should never be water-based. The full walkthrough is in the care section of the Bones bearings guide.
Lubricate: how much and with what
The official Bones dose: 2 drops of Speed Cream per bearing (1 drop for Swiss Ceramics), always after cleaning. Two of their rules worth memorizing: don't add oil to dirty bearings (it only spreads the grime around inside) and don't ride them without lubricant, because they fail quickly.
On WD-40 as a lubricant, Tactics warns its effects wear off quickly, leaving bearings dry and vulnerable to rust, and SkateboardersHQ adds it attracts dirt and can ruin bearings within a couple of months. The Bones page doesn't mention it; that warning comes from these two sources.
Clean wheels and cores
According to Tactics, cleaning wheels does little for the wheels themselves; what it achieves is extending bearing life, because the gunk in the cores ends up inside the bearings. With the bearings out, wipe the cores with paper towel.
If you want to wash them, mild soapy water and no harsh chemicals, which damage the urethane.
Water and weather
What water does to your skateboard
In bearings, water rusts the steel and, per SkateboardersHQ, dissolves the lube inside. In the deck, Tactics explains that most of the adhesives between plies are water-soluble: getting soaked can unglue it from within, swell the fibers and end in warping or delamination.
Trucks and hardware handle one soaking, but repetition rusts the kingpin, nuts, washers and hangers. On wet ground, even soft wheels lose grip suddenly, and wet grip tape gets slippery and can peel off.
Waterlogged deck: what to do
Symptoms of a waterlogged deck: it weighs more and the pop feels soggy. Sound test: drop it flat; a dull, muffled thud means soaked, a crisp snap means it got away with it.
On whether it's saveable, the sources disagree. Stoked Ride Shop suggests disassembling and airing it for several days (weight on top overnight if warped), though they admit that if the board is no longer right, your best bet is a new one. SkateboardersHQ agrees on passive drying and rules out the oven, because heat weakens the glue. Read together: drying recovers the weight, the lost pop usually doesn't come back.
Skating in the rain: the rain board
You can skate in the rain, but the advice SkateboardersHQ and Tactics agree on is keeping a rain board: a retired deck you sacrifice on wet days to protect your good setup.
If the board gets wet: bearings out, clean, dry and re-lube; trucks taken apart and dried, kingpin and nuts included; deck toweled off and left to air. In cold and snow, don't leave it outside overnight: fog and moisture find their way inside.
Where to store your board
Somewhere dry, indoors, on a shelf or hanging on a wall. Never outside.
Tactics adds a less obvious enemy: a car in the sun. Extreme heat can warp the deck, because swings in temperature and humidity twist the plies. Extreme cold doesn't help either, and very dusty places shorten bearing life.
Repairs
Gluing a chip with epoxy
You can reposition the splintered piece and glue it with two-part epoxy. It works halfway: SkateboardersHQ warns the bond only holds for a while.
As a patch to stretch a deck's life, fine; as a permanent fix, no. If the splintered edges keep getting worse, that's a replacement sign.
Razor tail: sand it or leave it
There's a documented debate here. Sanding the edge is possible and prevents cuts to your hand, but you lose thickness and pop along the way, and the SkateboardersHQ author suggests leaving it alone or accepting a new deck if it bothers you.
Where the sources do agree is prevention: Tactics says don't brake by dragging your tail on the ground, which is exactly what causes it.
Flat spots: grind them down with powerslides
This repair Tactics does endorse, on hard wheels: powerslides on rough asphalt until the flat spot wears down and the wheel rolls smooth again, or rubbing the wheel against the ground by hand while holding the board.
Small flat spots sometimes smooth out on their own with use. Big ones that even powerslides won't even out call for a new set.
Remove a bearing with the truck axle
No puller needed. The trick both Tactics and skatedeluxe teach: seat the wheel halfway on the truck axle so the axle catches the bearing, then turn the wheel outward to lever it out.
It comes out without forcing, and it works just as well on a bearing that's sitting crooked.
Myths: flipping the deck and window cleaner
Mounting the nose as the tail to recover pop is advice that gets passed around, but none of our sources recommends it or even mentions it as a technique. With modern nearly symmetrical decks, wear spreads naturally if you skate switch and nollie; mounting the deck backwards regenerates nothing.
Window cleaner on grip tape is another forum classic with no backing: neither Tactics, nor SkateboardersHQ, nor Mob recommends it in their guides. What matches the documentation: grip gum and, at most, as little water as possible.
Nothing matches those filters.
When to replace each part: the signs
The deck
The clearest sign is running out of tail: when the edge is so chewed there’s no wood left to pop from, that’s it. Razor tail, that sharp blade-like edge you get from braking by dragging the tail, kills pop and can give you a nasty cut on the hand too.
Pop loss arrives on its own with use. When tricks start taking a strange amount of effort and the board feels hard to control, that’s the wood giving in. According to Ripped Laces, the pop of a daily-skated deck stays fresh for around 1 to 2 months.
Cracks are worth telling apart. Pressure cracks, those fine stress lines next to the truck bolts, usually only affect the top and bottom plies and, according to SkateboardersHQ, don’t matter. What does matter is a crack running through several plies of maple: there the risk of snapping the deck near the bolts on a hard impact goes up for real, and it’s replacement time. If a ply has outright snapped (the deck suddenly flexes way too much), replace it now, because it will break on the next trick.
Delamination, plies coming apart, costs stiffness and pop and ends in breakage. A detail few people know: Powell Peralta officially states that its decks are warranted against delamination for their useful life, so if it happens to you on a reputable brand’s deck, ask before binning it. Chips on the edges, on the other hand, are no drama as long as nose and tail stay decent; keep an eye on them and replace the deck if the splintered edges keep getting worse. If you want to put names to all these parts first, we break them down in skateboard parts explained.
So how long does a deck last? The honest range SkateboardersHQ gives runs from 1 hour to 1 year, which sounds like a joke but sums up the reality. Getting specific with Ripped Laces: with intense daily street skating, a new deck every 1 or 2 months is not unusual; skating a few times a week or cruising, it can last a couple of years; in bowls, once a year is plausible, and on mini ramps we’re talking years. Remember those two sites share an author, so take it as one person’s documented estimate, not an industry consensus.
The wheels
Tactics sums it up: the most noticeable sign is shape, meaning irregular wheels, flat spots or coning. Add to that diameter loss (friction eats millimeters and rebound with them) and the practical limit is getting close to the core. Hard wheels develop pitting and tears over time; soft wheels tend to chunk, losing whole pieces. Either one calls for a new set.
Lifespan varies wildly: from 2 months to 2 years depending on hardness, surfaces and style, with powerslides and downhill as the big urethane eaters (SkateboardersHQ cites a downhiller who lost 10 mm off a soft wheel in a single day) and wooden mini ramps at the other extreme, where a set can last up to a decade. Small flat spots, by the way, sometimes smooth out on their own with use; big ones don’t. If you’re shopping for the next set, we compared the current options in best skateboard wheels.
The bearings
The signs are audible: squeaking, a gritty sandy sound, a wheel that slows down right away. The practical SkateboardersHQ rule is to spin the wheel by hand, and if it stops in under roughly 4 seconds, it’s time to clean or replace. Tactics suggests an intermediate trick before taking anything apart: a few drops of lubricant and another spin; if that doesn’t help, deep clean. And when do you replace instead of clean? When cleaning no longer helps. Bones, the reference manufacturer, is blunt on its official page: don’t continue to use bearings that don’t spin freely, because the damage becomes permanent and they can seize up completely.
The grip tape
Replace it when it goes smooth or shiny, when your foot slips, or when it starts peeling at the edges. Reusing old grip on another deck isn’t a real option. To remove the old sheet, the usual trick is warming it with a hair dryer and peeling it off slowly; the application process is covered inside our guide on how to build a skateboard.
Bushings and pivot cups
We covered bushings in the checks section: crushed, cracked or unresponsive to kingpin adjustment means they’re done. Pivot cups (the little urethane cup the hanger pivots in) are a replaceable part too, though the sources we consulted don’t give concrete criteria here. Going by general experience, slop and a clacking sound when turning tend to give away a worn pivot cup, but take that as orientation, not verified data.
Water and your skateboard
What water actually does
In bearings, water works from the inside: it rusts the steel and, according to SkateboardersHQ, dissolves the lube inside. Bones keeps it simple: keep them dry, no further nuance. In the deck, the problem is chemical: Tactics explains that most of the adhesives bonding the plies are water-soluble, so getting soaked can literally unglue the deck from within and ruin the pop, and swollen wood fibers end in warps and deformation. Trucks and hardware handle the occasional soaking better, but repetition brings rust to the kingpin, nuts, washers and hangers. And on wet asphalt, even soft wheels lose grip suddenly, with slides that give no warning, while wet grip tape gets slippery and can start peeling off.
Waterlogged deck: symptoms and the is-it-saveable debate
A waterlogged deck shows itself in two ways: it weighs more and the pop feels soggy. The quick test is sound: drop it flat on the ground; if the impact sounds dull and muffled, it’s soaked; if it sounds crisp, it got away with it.
Can it be saved? The sources don’t tell the same story here, and we’d rather leave it that way. Stoked Ride Shop suggests taking the whole setup apart and airing the deck for several days somewhere ventilated, with weight on top overnight if it has warped, but they themselves admit that if the board is no longer right, your best bet is just to get a new one. SkateboardersHQ agrees on passive drying (towel, disassemble, air) and adds a warning worth underlining: no oven, because heat weakens the glue. Reading both sources together, the realistic takeaway is that drying recovers the weight but not the lost pop. A properly soaked deck doesn’t go back to being what it was.
Skating in the rain
You can, whether it’s worth it is another matter. The one piece of advice where two independent sources agree (SkateboardersHQ and Tactics) is keeping a rain board: a retired deck you sacrifice on wet days to protect your good setup. If your board does get wet, the protocol is disassembly: bearings out, clean, dry and re-lube; trucks taken apart and dried, kingpin and nuts included; deck toweled off and left to air. In cold and snow, same care: don’t leave the board outside overnight, because fog and moisture find their way inside.
Where to store it
Somewhere dry, indoors, on a shelf or hanging on a wall. The outdoors is ruled out by everything above, but there’s a less obvious enemy: a car in the sun. Tactics warns that the extreme heat of a closed car can warp the deck, because sudden swings in temperature and humidity twist the plies. Extreme cold doesn’t help either, and very dusty places shorten bearing life.
Cleaning: the essentials and where the step-by-steps live
For grip tape, Tactics describes three methods depending on the dirt: grip gum for everyday grime, a brush with barely damp bristles in circular motions for caked-in mud (drying with paper towel and finishing with grip gum afterwards), and a hair dryer on medium heat with absorbent paper for wax transferred from a ledge. However, SkateboardersHQ is considerably stricter about that second method: never use water on grip tape, because the deck absorbs it and the grip can end up peeling; for dry dirt, sunshine and a brush. Two serious sources, two different rules. Our cautious reading: grip gum always comes first, and if you do use water, make it the bare minimum and only on the bristles, never on the deck itself.
With wheels, the curious part is that cleaning them does little for the wheels themselves; what it achieves, according to Tactics, is extending bearing life, because the gunk in the wheel cores ends up inside the bearings. Take advantage of having the bearings out to wipe the cores with paper towel, and if you want to wash the wheels, mild soapy water and no harsh chemicals, which punish the urethane.
And then bearings, the most science-heavy part of skate maintenance. The summary of the official Bones doctrine: shields off with a pin from the inner race (the shield itself gets washed in warm soapy water, never solvent, which blisters it), a bath in a proper solvent (pure or nearly pure isopropyl alcohol, carburetor cleaner or acetone; diluted pharmacy alcohol won’t dissolve grease), immediate drying, ideally with compressed air, and re-lubing with 2 drops of Speed Cream per bearing. Two rules Bones repeats that are worth memorizing: don’t add oil to dirty bearings (it only spreads the grime around inside) and don’t ride them without lubricant, because they fail quickly. Tactics follows the same scheme and adds the warning about WD-40 as a lubricant: its effects wear off quickly, leaving the bearings dry and vulnerable to rust. SkateboardersHQ adds that it attracts dirt and can ruin bearings within a couple of months. For the record: that warning comes from Tactics and SkateboardersHQ; the Bones page doesn’t mention WD-40 at all. The full cleaning walkthrough, materials included, is in the care section of our Bones bearings guide.
Repairs: what works and what doesn’t
Gluing a chip with epoxy: works halfway. You can reposition the splintered piece and glue it with two-part epoxy, but SkateboardersHQ warns the bond only holds for a while. As a patch to stretch a deck’s life, fine; as a permanent fix, no.
Sanding razor tail: there’s a real debate here. Sanding the edge down is possible and prevents cuts, but you lose thickness and pop along the way, and the SkateboardersHQ author outright suggests leaving it alone or accepting a new deck if it bothers you. Prevention is where everyone agrees: Tactics says don’t drag your tail on the ground to slow down, which is exactly what causes it.
Grinding out flat spots with powerslides: this one Tactics does endorse, on hard wheels. Powerslides on rough asphalt until the flat spot wears down and the wheel rolls smooth again, or rubbing the wheel against the ground by hand while holding the board.
Removing a bearing without a tool: the trick both Tactics and skatedeluxe teach is using the truck axle itself as the lever, seating the wheel halfway so the axle catches the bearing and turning the wheel outward.
Flipping the deck around: the advice of mounting the nose as the tail to regenerate pop gets passed around. None of the sources we consulted recommends it, or even mentions it as a technique. With modern nearly symmetrical decks, wear spreads naturally if you skate switch and nollie, but mounting the deck backwards doesn’t bring pop back from anywhere.
Window cleaner on grip tape: another forum classic with no backing in our sources. Neither Tactics, nor SkateboardersHQ, nor Mob recommends it in their guides. What is consistent with the documentation: grip gum and, at most, as little water as possible.
Drying a deck with heat: we said it above, but it bears repeating here because it’s the most tempting home repair. SkateboardersHQ rules out the oven, and Stoked Ride Shop, whose own steps mention a hair dryer at one point, closes its guide warning you to avoid heaters and blow dryers to speed up drying. The drying method that breaks nothing is the boring one: deck disassembled, in the air, for days.
The skate tool and the basic kit
The tool that solves 90% of this guide is a skate tool: axle nut wrench, kingpin wrench and a driver for the mounting hardware, all in one piece. Skatedeluxe describes it as the easiest and best way to assemble and adjust a skateboard, and SkateboardersHQ adds a buyer’s tip: the very cheap ones break, so a decent one is worth it. If you’d rather use household tools, the official skatedeluxe equivalents are a Phillips screwdriver or Allen key (depending on the bolts) plus a 10 mm wrench for the mounting hardware, 13 mm for axle nuts and 14 mm for the kingpin.
The rest of the kit fits in a shoebox: a container with solvent and lubricant for bearings (the Bones Cleaning Unit is the classic example), a pin or blade for the shields, an old toothbrush, a tray so you don’t lose nuts and speed washers, grip gum and a utility knife for grip tape. Optional extras: spacers, riser pads and deck rails, which protect the graphic and stretch your slides as a bonus.
Keep exploring
- Skateboard parts explained
- Bones bearings guide (with the full care section)
- How to build a skateboard
- Best skateboard wheels
- How to choose skateboard wheels
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