GUIDES

How to build a complete skateboard step by step (2026 guide with video)

Full tutorial to build your own skateboard from scratch: deck, trucks, wheels, bearings, grip. Tools, steps and video.

Building your own skateboard sounds harder than it is. The first time takes an hour — after that you’ll have it done in 25 minutes with your eyes closed. And learning to build it matters because you’ll have to do it every time you change deck, trucks or wheels.

In this guide: the tools you need, the exact order, the details that trip up beginners, and a step-by-step video to watch.

What you need before you start

Parts (the complete setup):

  • Deck
  • 2 trucks (front + back)
  • 4 wheels
  • 8 bearings (2 per wheel)
  • 4 spacers (between the bearings) — optional but recommended
  • 1 grip tape
  • 8 bolts + 8 nuts (standard or allen)
  • 4 washers (usually come with the trucks)

Tools:

  • 1 skate tool (the 3-in-1: allen + 14mm for axles + 14mm for kingpin)
  • 1 box cutter to cut the grip
  • 1 file or fine sandpaper to smooth the grip edge (optional but looks better)

Step 1: stick the grip tape

Grip tape comes with adhesive backing protected by a paper. The right process:

  1. Place the deck top-side up on a flat table.
  2. Peel 5-10 cm of the paper off the back of the grip.
  3. Line the grip up with one end of the deck (nose or tail, doesn’t matter).
  4. Stick those 5-10 cm down pressing firmly.
  5. Gradually peel the rest of the paper while pressing the grip from the centre to the edges with your palm.
  6. Work slow. If you see a bubble, lift and re-stick.

Step 2: score and cut the excess

The grip sticks out past the deck outline. You have to cut it:

  1. Take an allen key or a screwdriver and run it around the whole perimeter of the deck, pressing firmly. The friction creates a visible white line on the grip — that’s your cut guide.
  2. Take the box cutter. Tilt it about 30-45° to the deck (NOT perpendicular).
  3. Rest the blade on the white line and cut following the perimeter. Do it in one steady pass.
  4. If loose threads remain, run fine sandpaper or the side of the blade over them to smooth them.

Step 3: mount the trucks on the deck

The trucks go underneath, the bolts go on top (head visible on the grip). The kingpin (the big central bolt of the truck) must point towards the centre of the deck, NEVER towards the ends.

  1. Push a bolt down from the top through each of the 4 front holes. If the grip doesn’t have the holes marked, push the bolt through it (the grip tears cleanly).
  2. Place the first truck (front) with the kingpin pointing to the centre.
  3. Underneath, fit the 4 corresponding nuts and screw them in with the skate tool.
  4. Tighten moderately — don’t crush it. You can tighten more later if they loosen with use.
  5. Repeat with the second truck (back).

Step 4: mount the bearings in the wheels

Each wheel takes 2 bearings (one on each side). There’s a trick to fitting them without a special tool:

  1. Flip the trucks up (board resting upside down on the table, trucks pointing up).
  2. Place a bearing on the axle (the thin metal axle that sticks out).
  3. Put a wheel on top of the bearing, pressing down firmly. The bearing press-fits into the centre of the wheel.
  4. Take the wheel off, flip it, repeat with the second bearing.
  5. If you use a spacer (recommended), it goes BETWEEN the two bearings.
  6. Repeat with all 4 wheels.

Step 5: mount the wheels on the trucks

  1. On the axle, first a washer — comes with the trucks in most cases.
  2. Fit the wheel with its 2 bearings.
  3. Add another washer.
  4. Hand-screw the nut until it’s flush.
  5. Finish with the tool: tighten until the wheel has NO side play, but NO MORE.
  6. Check: the wheel should spin free when you spin it by hand. If it spins heavy, you’ve over-tightened.

Step 6: final kingpin adjustment

The kingpin is the big bolt in the centre of the truck. It defines how “hard” or “soft” the truck turns.

  • Loose (wide turning): the truck turns a lot. Good for cruising, bad for flips.
  • Tight (controlled turning): the truck turns little. Good for flips, bad for cruising.

Sweet spot: flip the board over, push a truck to one side with your hand. It should lean but return to centre on its own. If it doesn’t return = too loose. If it doesn’t move = too tight.

Set both kingpins equally at first. Over time you’ll discover whether you like the front looser, both equal, or tighter.

Where next?

Ready to buy?

If you want to skip the back-and-forth, here are two clear paths. If you'd rather fine-tune, head back to the sections above.

Frequently asked questions

Frequently asked questions

How long does it take to build a complete skateboard?
First time, count on 60-90 minutes taking it slow. With experience, 25-30 minutes. The fiddliest part is sticking and cutting the grip without bubbles.
What tools do I need?
A skate tool (includes allen, axle wrench and screwdriver) and a box cutter. That's it. A skate tool costs €8-12 and lasts a lifetime.
Can I build the skateboard without the special skate tool?
Yes, but you need: 1/8 allen key (bolts), 14mm wrench (axles and kingpin), Phillips screwdriver (some kingpins). The skate tool combines them all in one. Worth the €10.
How tight should the kingpin be?
Until the truck turns with some resistance but without locking. Test: flip the board over, push a truck with your hand: it should lean and return to centre smoothly. Spins free = too loose. Won't turn = too tight.
Do the wheels need to be tightened hard?
No. The nut should sit flush with the axle (the thread should poke out 1-2mm) and the wheel should spin free. Tighten more and you choke the bearing.
Do I need glue for the grip tape?
No. Grip tape comes with adhesive on the back. You just peel the paper and stick it. If you later want to re-stick it, then yes you need double-sided adhesive.

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