Complete Longboard Guide: Types, Sizes and How to Choose

The longboard has been misunderstood for decades. For a lot of people it’s “a longer skateboard” and not much else; for others, anything over 80 cm with soft wheels qualifies. The reality is that under the word “longboard” you’ve got at least five distinct disciplines, each with its own geometry, deck, wheels and community. Buy thinking you’ll be cruising around and show up with a downhill board, and you’re going to have a bad time. Same goes the other way around.

This guide is what we’d have wanted to read before buying our first longboard: real anatomy, the six or eight types that actually matter, concrete sizes, brands worth your money, how to choose based on your use case, and the first steps so you don’t eat pavement.

Longboard vs skateboard: why there’s so much confusion

The longboard was born in Hawaii and California in the 1950s, when surfers wanted to bring the feeling of the water onto asphalt. It didn’t settle as its own discipline until the 70s, when polyurethane wheels arrived. And mass production with brands like Sector 9 didn’t come until the 90s.

The classic skateboard (popsicle) and the longboard are cousins, not siblings. They share four wheels and a deck, but everything else is different:

Feature	Classic skateboard (popsicle)	Longboard
Length	31-32″ (78-81 cm)	36-50″ (90-130 cm)
Width	7.5-8.5″	9-10″
Trucks	Standard kingpin	Reverse kingpin (RKP)
Truck width	129-149 mm	150-180 mm
Wheels	52-56 mm / 99A	65-80 mm / 78-85A
Shape	Symmetrical with kicktails	Hugely varied (pintail, drop, dancer…)
Built for	Tricks, street, park	Distance, speed, dancing

The confusion comes from cruisers: skateboard-shaped decks with big, soft wheels. A 32″ cruiser can be mistaken for a “small longboard” but technically it’s still a skateboard. The real boundary is reverse kingpin trucks and going over 36″.

Longboard anatomy

The deck

It’s the part that varies the most. The key factors:

• Materials: the standard is Canadian maple (7-9 plies) for durability. Mid and high-end boards mix maple with bamboo (more flex, lighter) and fibreglass or carbon (more stiffness with less weight). Loaded pioneered bamboo-fibre constructions; they’re the benchmark now for cruising and dancing.
• Concave (lateral curve): flat for dancing, mild for cruising, deep for downhill and freeride.
• Flex (vertical flexibility): lots of flex = more absorption and carving, less stability at speed. Little flex = downhill. For cruising, medium flex.
• Camber/rocker: camber rises in the centre (more response), rocker dips in the centre (more of a ‘locked-in’ feel underfoot).
• Mount type: top-mount (trucks underneath, classic), drop-through (trucks go through the deck), drop-deck (standing platform is lowered). More on this below.

Trucks

This is the key difference from a regular skateboard. Longboards use reverse kingpin trucks (RKP): the kingpin (the central bolt) exits on the opposite side from a standard skateboard truck. That gives you:

• More height (the deck sits higher off the ground).
• More width (150-180 mm hanger vs 129-149 mm on standard).
• More response in carving and much more stability at speed.

Top longboard truck brands: Paris Trucks (V3 is the industry standard), Caliber (Caliber II, freeride/downhill range), Bear (Grizzly and Kodiak), Randal (the inventors of RKP). For beginners, Paris V3 180 mm 50° is what everyone recommends — and for good reason.

Bushings (the urethane cushions) control how much the truck pivots. Softer = more turn, harder = more stability. They come from the factory at a medium durometer (87-90A); swapping them is the first customisation everyone does.

Wheels

Big and soft — the complete opposite of a regular skateboard:

• Diameter: 65-80 mm (most common: 70-75 mm).
• Durometer: 78A-85A (soft), although freeride wheels go up to 80-85A to slide more easily.
• Lip profile: square edge for maximum grip, round edge for slides. Hybrids exist.
• Core placement: offset and sideset cores give more grip; centerset cores wear evenly and are easier to rotate.

Reference brands: Orangatang (Loaded’s wheel brand — Caguamas, Kegels, Stimulus), Cloud Ride, Powell Peralta (classic G-Slides), Sector 9 Race Formula.

Bearings

The ABEC system (1-9) measures precision, not actual speed or durability for skating. For longboarding, ABEC 7 or 9 is more than enough. Bones Reds (unbeatable value), Bones Swiss (premium), Zealous Built-In (with integrated spacers and washers — very convenient).

The 5 longboard types that actually matter

1. Cruising

The “getting from A to B” longboard. Short to medium distances, urban terrain, relaxed pace. Drop-through or comfortable top-mount deck, 38-42″, wheels 70 mm / 78-80A.

• Who it’s for: most people. The longboard 70% of buyers end up with.
• Typical setup: drop-through, Paris 180 mm, 70 mm/78A wheels, Bones Reds.
• Price: $140-230.

2. Carving (surf style)

Mimicking the flow of surfing on asphalt, making continuous S-turns. This calls for decks with lots of flex and camber, usually top-mount, 36-42″.

• Icons: Loaded Tan Tien, Loaded Bhangra V2 (large version), Sector 9 Lookout.
• Who it’s for: surfers, people who already skate and want fluidity.
• Setup: top-mount, Paris 180 mm 50°, Orangatang Stimulus 70 mm / 83A wheels.

3. Dancing / freestyle

Visually the most impressive discipline. Footwork across the deck, spins, long manuals. Needs very long decks (45-50″+), flat concave and kicktails at both ends.

• Icons: Loaded Bhangra V2 (the world reference), Loaded Tarab, Landyachtz Stratus, Arbor Axis Bamboo.
• Who it’s for: patient people with flat, smooth ground. Real learning curve, but the results are spectacular.
• Setup: top-mount, 180 mm trucks, 65-70 mm / 78A wheels (light, very agile).
• Price: $320-520 (good dancing decks are expensive).

4. Downhill

Going down mountains at 50-100+ km/h. A serious discipline requiring specific gear, technique and closed or very lightly trafficked roads. Stiff, drop-deck or top-mount with deep concave decks, 35-40″, short wheelbase for reactivity.

• Icons: Landyachtz Evo, Pantheon Pranayama, Rayne Demonseed, Sector 9 Bomber.
• Who it’s for: riders with prior freeride experience, full protective gear and a clear head.
• Setup: top-mount or drop-deck, Caliber II 50° downhill, 70-75 mm / 78A hard wheels (Orangatang Kegel, Cloud Ride).

5. Freeride / sliding

Halfway between cruising and downhill. Mid-range speeds (25-50 km/h) with intentional slides to brake and control your line. Symmetrical top-mount or drop-through decks, 36-40″, medium concave.

• Icons: Landyachtz Switchblade, Loaded Tesseract, Arbor Cataclysm.
• Who it’s for: the natural next step after cruising. Teaches you to control speed without depending on the footbrake.
• Setup: top-mount or symmetrical drop-through, 70 mm / 80-85A round-edge freeride wheels (Orangatang Stimulus, Cloud Ride 4President).

Deck shapes

This is what confuses people most when buying. Three main families:

Pintail (classic)

The “vintage” shape: narrow at the tips, wide in the middle, teardrop-style. Built for gentle carving and laid-back cruising. Almost always top-mount. It’s the mental image most people have of the “traditional” longboard.

• Advantage: clean look, good carving.
• Limitation: not suited for slides or aggressive downhill.
• Typical example: Sector 9 Pintail Bamboo, Arbor Fish.

Drop-through

The trucks go through the deck, mounted from the top. That lowers the centre of gravity by 5-10 mm, making the deck more stable and easier to push (more comfortable footbrake, less fatigue).

• Advantage: stability, comfort for cruising and long-distance pushing.
• Limitation: less reactive in carving than an equivalent top-mount.
• Examples: Landyachtz Drop Hammer, Loaded Icarus, Arbor Axis.

Drop-deck (drop platform)

The deck drops down in the standing area. Sits even lower than a drop-through. Built for downhill and very long-distance pushing (multi-kilometre touring).

• Advantage: maximum stability, comfortable pushing.
• Limitation: heavier deck, less versatile.
• Examples: Landyachtz Switch, Pantheon Trip.

Top-mount

Trucks go underneath the deck, not through it. The oldest configuration and the most reactive. You’re higher off the ground, which translates to more carving, more response and more leverage.

• Advantage: agility, reactivity, better for aggressive freeride and dancing.
• Limitation: less stable at high speed for beginners; more tiring to push.
• Examples: Loaded Bhangra, Loaded Tan Tien, Landyachtz Dinghy (cruiser).

Sizes: length, width, wheelbase, flex

• Length: 28-50″ (70-127 cm). Below 32″ you’re in cruiser territory. Above 45″ you’re into dancing.
• Width: 8.5-10.5″. Dancing decks run wider for foot stability; downhill boards run narrower for agility.
• Wheelbase (distance between the two axles): 21-32″. Long wheelbase = more stability at speed, less turn. Short = more reactive, more twitchy. For cruising, aim for around 25-28″.
• Flex: usually rated in levels (1-3, where 1 is very stiff and 3 is very flexy). For beginners and carving: medium flex (level 2). For downhill: flex 1 (stiff).

Top longboard brands

These are the names you’ll see in every serious ranking:

• Loaded Boards (USA): the premium reference for carving, dancing and freeride. Bamboo-fibre constructions, legendary durability. Bhangra, Icarus, Tan Tien, Tesseract are icons. Expensive but built to last years.
• Sector 9 (USA): the brand that brought longboarding to the masses in the 90s. Huge catalogue, from entry-level (Hopper, Aperture) to downhill. Excellent value in the mid range.
• Landyachtz (Canada): impeccable deck engineering. Drop Hammer (cruising), Switchblade (freeride), Evo (downhill), Dinghy (cruiser). Very high quality.
• Arbor (USA): wood and bamboo with a focus on sustainability, careful aesthetics. Axis, Cataclysm, Fish are classics.
• Globe (Australia): solid mid-range, especially larger cruisers and dancing.
• Rayne (Canada): high-end downhill and freeride focus. Demonseed, Vandal.
• Pantheon (USA): specialists in long-distance pushing/touring. Pranayama, Trip.

Spanish and European brands

• Hydroponic (Spain): this Catalan brand is the best value-for-money option for entry-level longboarding in the European market. Cruisers, drop-through longboards and dancing decks at much more reasonable prices than US brands. If your budget is $120-200 and you’re just starting out, look at Hydroponic first.
• Long Island (Spain): wide catalogue of cruisers and leisure longboards, easy to find in Spanish skate shops.
• Mindless (UK): basic cruisers and longboards, honest entry-level range.

More detail on domestic manufacturers in our post on Spanish skate brands.

How to choose your first longboard

Three questions and you’ve got your answer:

1. What do you want it for?
   • Getting around, commuting, casual miles → cruising drop-through 38-42″.
   • Surf feeling, long S-turns → carving top-mount 38-40″ with flex (Tan Tien or similar).
   • Dancing / freestyle → dancing 45-50″ (Bhangra and friends).
   • Controlled hill riding → symmetrical freeride 36-40″.
   • Going down mountain passes at speed → downhill drop-deck 36-38″ (and a full-face helmet first).
2. What’s your budget?
   • $120-180 → Hydroponic, Sector 9 entry, Globe. No frills but it’ll hold up fine for your first year.
   • $200-320 → Landyachtz, Arbor, upper-range Sector 9. A real quality jump.
   • $350+ → Loaded, Pantheon, Rayne. The usual deal: expensive usually means expensive for a reason, but it’s not essential to start.
3. What’s your skating level?
   • Zero → drop-through 40″, keep it simple.
   • I can skate a regular skateboard → you can jump to top-mount with confidence.
   • Coming from surfing → carving or dancing will hook you immediately.

First steps on the board

Stance: goofy or regular

Same as skateboarding or snowboarding, you ride with one foot forward and one back. Left foot forward means you’re regular; right foot forward means goofy. Neither is better — go with what your body picks. If you’re not sure, check our test: goofy vs regular.

Pushing

The regular push is with your back foot (the one at the rear): front foot planted pointing forward, back foot to the ground, push, lift it back up, plant it. Most comfortable and efficient.

The mongo push is with your front foot: your back foot stays fixed and you push with the front one. It’s less efficient and considered a beginner habit; try to correct it from the start even if it feels awkward.

Braking: footbrake

This is the first technique you need to nail. You drop your back foot to the ground (same motion as pushing) but instead of pushing off, you drag your sole while applying weight. Brake gently at low speed; if you’re going faster, brake with several progressive drags.

Basic slide (coleman / heelside)

When you’re going too fast for a footbrake, slides come in. The easiest to start with is the coleman slide or heelside: wearing gloves with pucks, you drop your inside hand to the ground, rotate the deck 90°, the wheels skid sideways and scrub speed. You need good surface, the right wheels (round edge, 80-85A) and a lot of practice on flat ground before trying it on a hill.

Carving / pumping

Once you can ride in a straight line, try leaning your body from side to side and making S-turns. That’s the foundation of carving and what’s going to get you hooked on longboarding. The softer your bushings, the more turn you’ll get.

Safety gear

• Relaxed cruising: helmet. Full stop.
• Freeride / moderate speeds: helmet, wrist guards, slide gloves with pucks (you can’t slide without pucks).
• Downhill: certified full-face helmet (Predator DH-6, TSG Pass, Bell Star), slide gloves, knee and elbow pads, clothing that won’t shred on impact (leather suit or equivalent). Without this, don’t even think about a serious descent.

The statistic nobody talks about: most serious longboard injuries happen on modest slopes (urban hills) with people wearing no helmet who thought “this is just a cruise.” A helmet is the equivalent of a seatbelt in a car.

Differences from cruisers and surfskates

• Cruiser: skateboard-shaped deck (28-32″) with big, soft wheels. More portable, less stable than a longboard. For short urban distances.
• Surfskate: cruiser with a special front truck (Carver, YOW, SmoothStar) that pivots far more. Really mimics surfing. Not built for long distances or downhill.
• Longboard: long deck with reverse kingpin trucks. For distance, speed or dancing.

If you’re choosing between the three, read our surfskate vs skateboard vs longboard comparison or the visual summary of types of skateboards.

Price ranges (2026)

Range	What to expect	Typical brands
Under $90	Decorative decks, flimsy components. Avoid.	Generic brands / Amazon
$120-180	Honest entry-level. Fine for getting started.	Hydroponic, Sector 9 Hopper, Globe
$200-320	Best value. Will last you years.	Landyachtz, Arbor, Sector 9 mid-high
$350-520	Premium. High-end materials (bamboo-fibre, carbon).	Loaded, Pantheon, Rayne, Landyachtz Evo
$580+	Custom or professional downhill.	Custom shops, Rayne high-end

Basic maintenance

• Bushings: replace them when they look deformed or when you want to change the feel. They last 6-18 months depending on use.
• Bearings: clean every 6-12 months. If they get wet, open them up, dry them out and re-lube immediately.
• Wheels: rotate every 200-300 km for even wear (especially in freeride).
• Kingpin bolts: check they haven’t loosened. They vibrate a lot over miles.
• Deck: if it’s bamboo-fibre, keep it out of direct sun and moisture. If it’s pure maple, same advice with a bit more margin.

For more on cleaning, we have a guide on how to clean skateboard bearings that applies equally to longboards.

Getting the right size

If you’re buying online and unsure about sizes, try the skateboard deck calculator. It’s built for regular skateboards, but the width recommendations based on height and shoe size will give you a solid starting point for minimum comfortable longboard width too.

And to browse a wide brand catalogue with analysis and teams, check our skate and longboard brands directory.

Quick summary

• A longboard is not “a longer skateboard”: the deck, trucks (reverse kingpin) and wheels (big and soft) are all different.
• There are 5 main disciplines: cruising, carving, dancing, freeride and downhill. Each needs a different setup.
• To get started: drop-through 38-42″, Paris 180 mm, 70 mm/78A wheels, Bones Reds. $170-260.
• Top brands: Loaded, Sector 9, Landyachtz, Arbor (USA/CA); Hydroponic in Spain.
• Helmet always. For downhill, full protective gear before a new deck.
• Learn footbrake before slides, and regular push instead of mongo from day one.

The longboard is the skateboarding discipline closest to the feeling of surfing and the only one that lets you cover serious distance without destroying yourself. No tricks, no street style: flow, distance and, if that’s your thing, speed. Getting started is cheap, mastering it takes years, and every style has its own community. Welcome.